Easy Circle Patterns

I generally find it (relatively) easy to construct patterns for sewing that are rectangular, trapezoidal, triangular, etc – anything consisting of not too many straight sides. For the longest time circular patterns (that couldn’t be traced from lids or bowls) were labor-intensive, though. Knowing that a circle is defined as the set of points equidistant from a given point (that is, a radius away from the circle’s center), I could use a ruler, draw an X to mark the center, and make a bunch of marks all the way around that I would then connect by hand to make as smooth a circle as I could.

However. There is a far easier way if you own a paper trimmer. Start with a sheet of paper (or taped-together sheets of paper) big enough to accommodate your circle, and fold into quarters. The picture below is a sheet of letter paper from which I will cut a circle 8″ across.

photo of paper folded in quarters lying on guillotine-style paper trimmer photo of folded paper about to be trimmed to 4" along edge

The second picture above shows the first cut. The corner where the two folds meet will be the center of the circle; I’ve placed it 4″ from the blade to cut my paper down into a 4″ square. After that I’ll start cutting off corners that show up between the two folded edges, as shown below.

photo of folded paper square about to be trimmed to 4" down center photo of eventual paper circle after six cuts at different angles

The second picture above is after six cuts, and it’s already looking pretty good. I didn’t keep count but I would estimate it took 20 or so cuts to make the finished circle, shown folded and unfolded below. Larger circles take more cuts.

photo of quartered paper circle after maybe 20 cuts - finished photo of unfolded paper circle - finished

You could obsess over the smoothness of your circle and even take scissors to it after the paper trimmer has reached its limit, but the one shown is plenty smooth for the purpose of a sewing pattern – the roundness of my seam would not be improved by additional trimming.

Limitations: with my paper trimmer I could make circles 1.5″ across (the metal strip is 3/4″ wide) or anything 2″ across or bigger (the markings start at 1″), but it’s not so easy until about 3″ across. However, for smaller circles there’s usually something I can trace, or at worst, the ruler method doesn’t take as long. Though circles up to 23″ across are possible, the early stages of large circles are difficult because your paper will likely be wider than the opening for the blade. I recommend folding your paper a third time, into a not-quite-triangle. That extra fold can lead to inaccurate cutting, so trim away excess paper as though you were making a slightly larger circle. Three cuts (two sides and the center) should be plenty to remove the paper that’s in your way, so you can unfold to quarters and proceed with the circle making.

A fibrous self-portrait

Over on Aquilino Arts, we planned to lend some personality to our site by creating an artistic version of a photograph of ourselves. As the crafter of the group, my medium was fiber. I’m quite pleased with how it came out.

photo of fiber self-portrait

The photo it represents actually came from this blog, from the post discussing the creation of the hat I’m wearing in it. Here it is for direct comparison.

original self-portrait photo

We did not end up using this for the team page as originally intended; the idea sort of fizzled out. I wanted to show it off somewhere, though, and in case you’re curious, I have for you some material lists and process photos.

Visible components:

  • Fabric
    • satin (sky, glasses)
    • fleece (white part of jacket)
    • home dec type (dark green trees, gray part of jacket)
    • netting (overlay for gravel)
    • cotton and/or cotton-poly (everything else)
  • Sewing thread
  • Bulky acrylic yarn (hat)
  • Fabric paint (lips and teeth)
  • Blanket binding (frame)

Invisible components:

  • Flannel (to pad up my nose-cheek-chin region just a tad, though I think it ended up being irrelevant)
  • Heavyweight nonwoven interfacing (face/head, line of trees on left, glasses, two full-size backings)
  • Fusible web (glasses, mouth)
  • Tacky glue (glasses)
  • Fray-Check (glasses)

The first two photos are the back view of the piece that formed my head and neck, and a partially laid out background. I used the head piece to help align the background pieces.

photo of back of head/neck piece photo of partially completed background with head/neck piece laid on top

Next, a shot I call The Invisible Bozo, and a taste of the oddness of cutting up three or four copies of your face to do a project.

photo of completed background with head, hair, glasses, and jacket photo of in-process hat

The back, before and after I covered it with a second layer of interfacing and with calico.

photo of finished back without decorative cover photo of fully finished back with decorative fabric layer and binding

Finally, a shot of the finished item lit from the right instead of the left. It really shows how much dimensionality the piece has.

photo of finished piece lit from right instead of left

This isn’t a project I would have done without someone telling me “hey, you should to do this,” but it was an interesting challenge. I don’t know what I’ll do with it now, but my rationale for backing and binding it was that if I was going to put as much time into something as I did into this (I didn’t keep track, but 10 hours give or take) then I was going to finish it properly.

Dragons!

My husband and I were dragons for Halloween!

photo of the hubs and me in our dragon suits

Thanks to my mother-in-law for the only photos I have of us wearing them! At that party my sister-in-law made a Christmas request, so I’ve actually made three of these now. The costumes started life as three sweat suits, three separating zippers (22-26″ depending on recipient’s height), a couple of yards of gold sweatshirt fleece, and a little batting and stuffing.

photo of material removed from one sweatsuit

I’m not going to give really specific directions, just a general procedure, but hopefully enough to be helpful if you want to make a similar costume for yourself. Start by pulling out the hood’s drawstring, picking the stitching out to remove the front pocket, cutting off both waistbands right at their edges, and trimming about 4″ off the bottom of the shirt. Pictured above is the removed material from one suit (plus the oval where the belly goes, minus a bit of that oval that I’d cut out for who knows what).

Size and height considerations: I used XL sweats for my 5’11” husband and my 5’6″ self; they were probably a size or two up from what we would get if we were going to just wear the sweats as sweats. For my long-backed hubby I ended up stitching the top and bottom together at only 1/4″ to allow a bit of extra torso length; my short-waisted self could probably have lost another three inches at the waist and been fine. I used S sweats for my 5’1″ sister-in-law (she could probably wear XS but might choose S anyway), and 4″ off the waist was perfect.

photo demonstrating design of dragon belly pattern photo of sewn but uninstalled dragon bellies

Make and install the belly: Sew the shirt and pants together across the front, center side to center side. Using the dimensions of that area as a guide, cut out two tall, thin half-ovals of your contrast fleece, including a half-inch seam allowance down the center. Baste them together and install a centered zipper between them, with any excess zipper at the top. Topstitch oval to front of body all around with zigzag; fold ends of zipper tape under at top to hide them. Carefully trim body fabric out from under belly fabric, keeping it whole for accessory creation.

photo of dragon body outside front view photo of dragon body inside front view

Sew shirt to pants across back, using unzipped belly for access.

If your sweats are like ours you’ll need to applique a shape over the logo – for us, covering the logo was the easiest way to lose it without losing the pockets. This is a good time to do that but I recommend cutting out all your accessories before cutting out the shape, so you don’t run out of fabric. I used a leaf, a star, and a musical note.

photo of appliques covering sweatpants logos photo of some dragon accessories

We each had wings, horns, and ears. We thought about back spikes and tails, but ultimately the desire to sit down comfortably won out. I padded the ears with a thin layer of batting, as well as my wings but not the other wings – I had bird-type wings on my back, and my husband and his sister had flying squirrel/bat wings. The horns were stuffed with batting.

photo of bat-style wing pieces, to be sewn together photo of bat-style wings, sewn but uninstalled

I was very pleased with how the big wings came out. They were the only fully machine-sewn accessory – I hand-sewed the others on to the sweats, but with the big wings I butted them up against the sleeve and side and made a wide zigzag through both, backstitching frequently to protect against popped stitches.

photo of bat-style dragon wings, attached photo of one set of installed dragon accessories

We all had different horns – mine were the stubby horns pictured above, the hubs’ were curved, and my sister-in-law’s were long, thin, and wound with embroidery floss (with a backstitch at each seam crossing) to make them look spiraled like a unicorn horn. I seem to be missing a lot of the photos I took (all of the ones from my sister-in-law’s costume, in particular) so I just have one shot of making the curved horns. There were three pieces each: two curved ones and one tapering but straight one.

photo of making a pair of curved horns

The straight horns were made from three pieces apiece, shaped as curved-edge triangles.

Now we can be dragons all the time!