FF: Repurposing clothing

This month we’re exploring ideas for worn out or damaged clothing.

stack of shirts from Pixabay Of course you can simply use them as fabric, as in the t-shirt quilt or this flannel infinity scarf made from PJ pants. A little more specific to the clothing but still really just using it as fabric are the famous t-shirt market bag and the less famous but lovely jeans-leg apron. Scrap Users might be a useful resource for this; the t-shirt quilt link and a few of the links below were on that page before its remodel, inspiring this topic.

Cutting clothing into strips is popular and versatile. T-shirts are a common target, since they are stretchy, but firm when several strips are put together. They’re good for bracelets, headbands, and belts. Here’s a macrame t-shirt bracelet and a braided belt from t-shirt strips. I saw a photo tutorial for making a seat cushion from long, wide strips of fabric (it may have been sheets, but t-shirts would work). I couldn’t track down the original, but it was essentially a large-scale friendship bracelet with the strip ends tied around the posts of the back of the chair. If you have enough clothes you can make a rug, whether that be shag, braided, woven, or knotted.

You could design endless variations on these themes, and I have some links to help you do so: T.J. Potter has my favorite collection of braiding instructions. You may also find macrame, boondoggle, and friendship bracelet resources helpful.

I find it a more interesting challenge, though, to think about using clothing for its characteristics as clothing. You can recombine clothes into Frankenstein’s wardrobe, as in these girls’ shirts (though only one of those fabrics was a shirt originally). I have seen shirts for men made from two or three contrasting shirts cut apart along the same lines and recombined, often with some kind of trim along the new seams, but have been unable to find any online. Simpler versions of that idea can be found in this Two-Face costume, straight-yoked shirt, and heart-yoked shirt, and art smock. For more ideas you could start searching for images of bowling shirts, rockabilly shirts, or colorblock shirts.

Dress shirts have so many distinctive features they are a natural choice for these sorts of projects. Here is a little girl’s dress from man’s dress shirt; the back is the sleeves, opened out and hanging from the cuffs, and the front of the dress is the shirt’s back, so the yoke is a bodice panel. These baby bibs are made from both dress shirts and t-shirts. The cuffs from an adult-size button down shirt can be made into a small wallet. [Her folding instructions are rather vague. I would say, button the cuff, flatten it so the end of the button side is tucked right into a fold near the buttonhole side, pin near the resulting fold at the opposite end, unbutton and sew.] Last but not least, Between the Lines has a guide for making a toiletry bag from a dress shirt (and some linen), using the body of the shirt to line the bag so that the original button front is a button closure at the top of the bag, and adding various features of the shirt to the outside of the bag as pockets and hanging straps. It’s quite lovely and she tries to give all the information you need to adapt it to a different shirt from the one she used.

The distinction of sweaters is the kind of material and the ribbing that typically appears at the cuffs and perhaps at the hem. You can use the sweater body to cover a pillow or sew mittens; with the addition of a cuff you can make a cute wine bottle holder. The sleeves are a natural for leggings and boot socks.

No discussion of repurposing clothing would be complete without jeans. The hems and topstitched seams can be turned into coasters, if you have enough of them. The top portion can be turned into a tote bag (I did this once – scroll down), or just the back side into an apron, with cleverly added pocket. A lunch bag can be made from the leg, and a similar bag could be made with other pants, or even the sleeves of a blazer or coat.

What have you seen that ought to be on this list?

Calculating your own basket pattern

side view of the fabric basket I know I said my fabric basket didn’t come out perfectly. The basic construction is still sound (follow that second link to see the directions), so I thought you might want to know how to use it for a custom size basket.

Here are the measurements you need:
H = height of basket
L = length of long side of basket opening
S = length of short side of basket opening
A = seam allowance for side and base seams
T = top opening turn-down allowance

In the basket I just made, these numbers were 12, 16, 8, 1/2, and 0, all in inches.

There will be vertical seams down the center of each short side. If you want to make a cube, H, L, and S will all be the same number. A and T will often also be the same number; for me, A is almost always 1/2″. If you want to have a lined basket where the outer fabric folds over the inner fabric and then under itself to give a clean edge, you’ll need two different values of T: 0 for the lining pieces and at least 1″ for the outer pieces (that would give a half-inch band around the inside top, with a half-inch turn-under of the raw edge); if I were doing this I would probably want a T of 2″ so a half-inch first fold would leave a 1.5 inch second fold, which is to say an inch and a half wide band of outer fabric around the top of the inside. At least for a large basket I would want a wide band like that.

As before, the rectangles below are not to scale. The cut-outs are larger than they would typically be, for ease of placing readable measurements on them.

Diagram: top: L + S + 2A; side: H + A + T; cut-out edges: S/2; base: L + 2A

Example: no turn-down at top because basket will be bound around top, seam allowance elsewhere is 1/2″.

Diagram: top: L + S + 1; side: H + 1/2; cut-out edges: S/2; base: L + 1

If this were a file box, L = 15″, S = 12″, H = 10″, we’d have the following.

Diagram: top: 28

It would be easy to modify this so there is a 1″ band of outside fabric at the top of the lining, with a 1/2″ turn-under at the bottom of the band. The lining would be cut by measurements of Example 1. The outer fabric would be cut almost the same, but the upper part of the side would be H + 2. For the file box, that makes it 12″.

I hope these are useful diagrams. Let me know if you make something with them!

Sewing the basket: what went right and wrong

I was all set to create a tutorial (in two parts, even) for the fabric basket I showed you last time, but when it had a few issues I decided that would be overselling it. Let me tell you basically what I did, and where it went well and poorly.

Body of Basket:

I made a paper pattern for the main basket pieces (diagram below) and cut two of it from each of three fabrics: outer basket fabric (patterned outdoor home dec fabric), basket lining fabric (solid cotton duck), and thin fleece. Later I discovered the pattern was five inches too wide – there was a 17″ measurement, and I thought good, that’s twice as wide as a sheet of paper. Well, you can probably guess what I did, and if not there’s a photo below.

fabric basket pattern diagram fabric basket erroneous paper pattern

The pattern was good but I have to figure out how to make linings fit well inside thick bags. The bottom interior is a bit scrunched to fit, even though I sewed the outer layer with 1/8″ smaller seam allowance than the inner layer. I also ended up trimming about 1/4″ off the top of the lining when I nested the layers and sewed them together. If I were doing it again I would also pony up for fusible batting and attach it to the outer layer (probably stopping 1/2″ in from the non-top edges) to eliminate the possibility that some of my issues are due to the loose fleece lining being in the wrong place.

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