ZOMG Granny Squares

I’m part of a movie club that meets weekly for a B-movie, a contest, and a photo. A few times a year we have a bigger event, for a holiday or just because. We’ve started dressing up for these events, sometimes with artfully combined thrift store finds but sometimes with our own creations. I was on a mission to use up yarn – and what can one do with an assortment of single skeins of colorful acrylic? – so I looked through Ravelry for retro crochet patterns and found the most glorious of all:

Me wearing granny square shortalls at the Main Street Museum

I wore it to the annual Movie Night anniversary celebration this week. One person described it as like yarn-bombing a person. Three others tried it on at the end of the night and described it as both comfortable and comforting. I would call it a big success – especially since I avoided buying any materials (there are three different white yarns in it) and it didn’t take nearly as long as I expected. It did come out bigger than I calculated or intended, but not as big as I feared before trying it on. And if I ever need a clown costume, I just have to find the right accessories!

Single Crochet Shaping 3: polygons

If you want to crochet a smooth disk, you should stagger the increases round to round. If they stack up on top of each other they tend to make corners. If you want something with corners, though, can you figure out how to make it without pure trial and error? In particular, if you want to make regular polygons of various numbers of sides, how do you figure out how to increase?

crochet polygons from three sides to eight

Being who I am, I began with geometry. A disk takes 6 or 7 increases around because when you increase the radius of a circle by 1 unit (i.e. by one round) the perimeter increases by 2π units, 6.28ish. We have to fudge a little, of course, since an sc doesn’t add exactly the same amount to circumference as to radius and we can only increase by whole stitches, but it works out; we are able to make disks.

For a polygon, there are two distances that could play the role of the circle’s radius: center to corner (radius), and center to edge midpoint (apothem). We have formulas that tell you how much the perimeter increases when the radius or apothem increases by 1, depending only on the kind of polygon you’re expanding.

Shockingly, I’ve decided not to go into the algebra here; you can read all about it Math Open Reference. My previous knowledge says you need 8 extra stitches for a square, and that number should be larger for fewer sides and smaller for more sides (you need more stitches to get around pointier corners). Those both matched the apothem calculation and not the radius calculation.

polygon extra stitches per round from apothem formula
triangle 10.4
square 8
pentagon 7.3
hexagon 6.9
heptagon 6.7
octagon 6.6

The apothem numbers leave a lot to be worked out: how to round, what to do when the increases aren’t a multiple of the number of sides, and whether an octagon could even be made when it called for fewer increases per round than corners. I made all six polygons more or less successfully, but they broke out into half easier, half harder.

the easier three polygons to make: triangle, square, heptagon

The easy polygons were the triangle, square, and heptagon.

Triangle: This didn’t go how I expected – I thought I would need to round up to 12 extra stitches per round, but I actually dropped down to 9. I started with 6 sc in a magic ring, and every corner got 4sc. Increases made into previous increases went into the third of the four sc.

Square: As I said, I already knew to put 3sc into the corners to make a square. I started with 6 sc, increased around, and then started making concentrated increases for corners. Increases made into previous increases were made into the middle sc.

Heptagon: Since for me, seven increases is appropriate for making a flat disk, the heptagon was straightforward. YMMV. I started with seven stitches, increased around, and then increased in the second stitch of each previous increase. To improve the point of the corners, in the last round I made 3sc into the second stitch of every previous round increase.

the three more complicated polygons: pentagon, hexagon, octagon

Pentagon, hexagon, and octagon were more difficult, but they did work reasonably well.

Pentagon: The pentagon formula called for 7.3 new stitches per round. Since five 2sc increases would add 5 and five 3sc increases would add 10, I alternated between them: start with 5 sc in a magic ring and make 3sc into each of them. Next round, put 2sc into the center of each 3sc increase; round after that, put 3sc into the second of each 2sc increase. Continue alternating, ending on a 3sc round. I did attempt mixing 2sc and 3sc increases within individual rounds, but it was a mess to keep the side lengths equal.

Hexagon: Like the pentagon, I used a combination of 2sc and 3sc increase rounds. The hexagon’s apothem number was lower and the number of increases per round higher (6 or 12) so I made two 2sc increase rounds for every one 3sc increase round. It perhaps would be even better to make three 2sc rounds per 3sc round, but I worried about maintaining the flatness of the piece. Start with 6 sc in a magic ring, make 3sc into each of them, and then make two rounds of 2sc increasing and one of 3sc. Put your increases into the second stitch of a 2sc predecessor or the middle stitch of a 3sc predecessor, and for best results end on a 3sc round.

Octagon: How can one even make an octagon if even one increase per corner leads to too many stitches around for the piece to stay flat? I suspect the best answer is to make a disk large enough to naturally hit a multiple of 8 stitches around and then do something like (sc, hdc, sc) in each corner on the last round. I wanted to try to stick to the size and methods of the other polygons (though I didn’t quite) and ended up with this: 7 sc in a magic ring; 2sc around; *2sc, sc* around. You’re at 21 stitches. Make a big jump to 32: *2sc, sc* 10 times, 2sc. Last round: sc 2, *(sc, ch, sc), sc 3* 7 times, (sc, ch, sc), sc. The chain in the middle of the last round’s increases gives it a little bit more point without adding even more extra bulk than we already have.

There you have it: all the polygons from 8 sides down rendered in crochet, for your freeform delight. I did these all in spirals and ended with a needle join in the second stitch; the ultimate perimeter would be smoother if you worked in joined rounds.

Crochet-covered earbuds

My young sister-in-law loves music (or at least Fall Out Boy) so for her birthday we thought we’d get her a new pair of earbuds and I would cozy them up to avoid tangles and kinks. Here they are:

photo of earbuds, coiled up

I went around in my head about how to do the covering, since crocheting a tube in the round that would be as tight as I wanted seemed awkward if not impossible. I ended up doing it semi-flat. My yarn was light worsted (on the level of Caron Simply Soft: marked as 4 but decidedly thinner than a lot of 4s) and I used an E hook (3.5mm)

In dark purple: make a chain the length of the wire, ear to jack. Don’t stretch the chain when measuring but don’t add slack either. Turn and single crochet in top loop only, slightly longer than the doubled part of the earbud wire. Chain to match the leftover starting chain. You now have a Y-shaped piece where the stem of the Y is wider than the arms.

In light purple: Attach at the base of the Y. With the earbud wire enclosed and the jack pointing out the base of the Y, slip stitch the sides of the dark purple strip together to make a tight tube. When you get to the junction of the Y, single crochet up one arm in top loop only. Then slip stitch back down, with a single earbud wire enclosed, earbud itself pointing out the top of the arm, to make the strip you just widened into another tight tube. Repeat on the other arm of the Y: single crochet in top loop only to the top of the arm; slip stitch to form a tube from the top back down the the junction, encasing the wire.

photo of earbuds laid out

I chose to stitch the arm in the front of the work first (closer to my final loop when I finished joining the base of the Y into a tube). When I got back to the junction the second time, I slip stitched in the back of the base’s last slip stitch so there wouldn’t be a gap in the light purple.

Your slip stitches will likely scrunch the tube so it doesn’t cover the full wire, but you can easily stretch it back out again, tightening the fit at the same time. When slip stitching I caught only one loop of the single crochets and one of the initial chains, and never worked in the back bump of the chain. When you’re done, secure your yarn and then weave it through the tube; there should be a lot of friction to keep it in place.